The GTX 1660 Ti is a very capable card. Sometimes it doesn't reach 60 FPS and the RTX 2060 does. You really can't go wrong with either option for budget 1440p gaming.
The Strix is already overclocked. You should be able to push it a little more to get closer to the tiny FPS bump of the Super. I personally wouldn't bother overclocking. Your card is very nice already.
I posted a benchmark link in the first post. The Super gets an extra 3 to 9 FPS depending on the game. That is pretty small and not noticeable.
It's not worth upgrading to the Super if you already own the 2080. The performance difference is small. The normal 2080 already gets great performance at 1440p. The 2080 Ti is the only upgrade worth considering if your 1440p monitor has a high refresh rate.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Do you have another PC to test it on? My GTX 980 Ti died on me yesterday. My PC suddenly shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I thought it was the motherboard at first. I tried two PCs with and without the GPU installed. They both wouldn't boot with the card installed and worked perfectly fine with it out. It's now an almost $670 paperweight. I'm now using my old GTX 660 Ti and it works great until I can save up for an RTX 2080 Ti. Just make sure you properly connected the PSU to the card and it's seated in the PCI-E slot good. Try removing and reinstalling it just in case that helps. If nothing gets it working then the card is probably dead.
The only mod I use is Alias Isolation. The built in AA in this game isn't very good. Even 8K with 2x AA doesn't remove the jags. This mod perfectly removes them making the game look great.
Intel is the best option for 1080p 144Hz gaming and overclocks better.
Somehow the list changed back to USA while I was creating it and it went over budget because of that. Here is a cheaper and similar option in Canadian. The i5-9600K is also a great CPU for 1080p 144Hz and overclocking. I'm leaving the other list up incase you are interested.
The OS doesn't have a price. You would need to spend more to get that. I don't recommend trying to make the build any cheaper to fit in the OS. This is the full USB version which can be installed by USB and used again if you change motherboards.
Both of these monitors support FreeSync which normally only works on AMD GPUs. You can use them fine without the FreeSync feature enabled. It costs much more to get a G-Sync monitor. NVIDIA is allowing sync support on FreeSync monitors now though.
This would give you both great gaming and music production with an eight core sixteen thread CPU and RTX 2080.
This BenQ 1440p monitor is IPS for great image quality. You could get the LG 27UD58-B 4K IPS and still be in budget if you want. The RTX 2080 is great for 4K or 1440p. The RTX 2070 is great for 1440p if you want to cut costs.
This optical drive only supports DVD/CD reading and writing. Change it to a Blu-Ray drive if you want.
This motherboard has wireless network support.
If you want cheaper then change the CPU to the i5-9600K and if even cheaper then the GPU to the RTX 2070.
The RX 580 is very close in performance to the 590 and cheaper if needed.
This doesn't have any Wi-Fi support. You would need to pick a B450 or X470 motherboard with Wi-Fi support or add a wireless network adapter like the TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter. It's better to use a wired connection for gaming if you can.
You could replace the rear stock exhaust fan with a 120mm Riing RGB fan for better balance with the 360mm Riing fanned cooler in the front. If you don't like RGB then change to parts with less or none and turn it off on parts that still have it. It's not much more to get a 3TB or 4TB HDD. I just tried to stay close to budget with the 2TB. I went with 16GB RAM to keep cost down. It's good for most uses. You can add more to get to 32GB later or change the kit now if needed.
This goes a little over the budget and has a decent amount more performance. The 8 core/16 thread 9900K is the best gaming CPU and better for streaming compared to the i5. You can save a decent amount with the Ryzen 2700 or 2700X which are also 8 cores and 16 threads. Even cheaper is the Ryzen 1700 8c/16t. Intel is better for 144Hz+ monitors. If you want 4K 60Hz gaming then both Ryzen or Intel will perform the same. The RTX 2080 is good for 4K 60Hz or 1080p/1440p 144Hz. You could go cheaper on the GPU depending on what monitor you will use. Check benchmarks to see what is best for you. The GTX 1070 Ti is good for 1080p 144Hz or 1440p 60Hz or the newer RTX 2070.
This Intel option has very little RGB. It has the best CPU though. This TXM 750W PSU is a good deal.
This Ryzen option has more RGB and the CPU is still great. This also has the better and more expensive Meshify case. This also has a better triple fan RTX 2080 vs the cheaper dual fan card on the other list. The 9900K is so expensive. I had to make cuts while trying to keep things decent. Ryzen is much better priced. You don't really need liquid cooling for Ryzen. A good air cooler is enough. The Kraken is just for more RGB and better aesthetic. I think it looks great. You can save some using the decent stock cooler which also has RGB or stick to cheaper Corsair AIOs. I went with the Gigabyte RTX 2080 for the triple fans and better price. A better match is the Asus Strix for Aura Sync with the Strix motherboard and Trident Z RGB RAM. It currently costs much more at the time of this post. The NZXT Hue+is pretty nice for RGB lovers. It can even come with Aer RGB fans in 120mm and 140mm.
The 1700 has eight cores and AMD's version of hyper-threading. The i7-9700K has eight cores and no hyper-threading. The 1700 is very close in performance to the 9700K in just about every benchmark and priced much better to help get a more powerful GPU for 4K gaming. A better GPU gives better 4K performance, not the CPU. You are GPU bound at 4K and all CPUs pretty much get the same FPS at 4K unless the CPU is really bad. Most CPUs are capable of 60 FPS though. It would have to be pretty terrible to not get that. The only time the new Intel CPUs are better would be high refresh rate gaming. The OP will only be gaming at 60Hz at 4K with this budget. It's pretty hard to get higher than 60 FPS at 4K with any GPU anyway unless the game is pretty old.
I should also mention GPU rendering is much faster than CPU rendering. The OP should look into using the RTX 2080 for CUDA acceleration to speed up rendering videos.
If you don't really need the Pro version of Windows 10 then I recommend getting the Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout TG case or change the CPU to the 2700 or 2700X. The H500 is a popular cheaper option. The R6 has sound dampening material and supports more internal storage drives or you could get external drives. The 1700 is at a great price.
This monitor will give you a bit of everything in a single display. It is 1440p, 27", IPS, 165Hz and supports G-Sync. Otherwise look into some 4K IPS options with or without G-Sync. You can find good deals on 4K IPS FreeSync monitors for about $350. FreeSync only works with AMD GPUs. The monitors can still be used with NVIDIA with FreeSync disabled. I'm personally using the Asus MX27UC 4K 60Hz IPS 27".
The new i7-9700K or i9-9900K would be great for video editing and 240Hz gaming. The RTX 2080 is about the same performance as the 1080 Ti and supports newer features. It would be good for 240Hz or 4K gaming. The RTX 2080 Ti would give you the best performance. Increase the RAM to 32GB if you think you'll need it or add more later.
I went with the cheaper 1700 to put budget into other parts for a better overall build. This goes over budget a little to get the Tomahawk motherboard. It's one of the best B450 mobos. You could get the cheaper ASRock B450 Pro4.
You would be much better off with a single RTX 2080 Ti. Most games don't support SLI and CrossFire. The i9-9900K is better than the 2700X. You don't need more than 16GB RAM for gaming and streaming.
You could get a beast new monitor if the storage was cheaper.
The Z97 motherboards have an updated BIOS for the i5-4690K. You would have to get the i5-4670K or i7-4770K for Z87 if you don't want to deal with updating.
The 6700K is fine if you already have it. Emulators only use from one to two cores. I'm not aware of an emulator that can use more. They are single core heavy. I never had trouble with my old quad core i5-4670K. The 8600K adds more cores the emulator won't use. Get it if you want. You would be fine with the cheaper i3-8350K.
The 2TB Barracuda is decent. Their 3TB had high failure rates. There is a newer version of it. I don't know what the failure rate is on that. I personally like Western Digital Black. They cost much more.
These AIO liquid coolers are fairly simple to install. A beefy air cooler can be about as good as an AIO if you can fit one into an ITX case. The H200 has fairly good CPU cooler compatibility. The Dark Rock Pro 4 will barely fit or get the smaller Dark Rock 4.
I don't know what country you live in. This at least gives you an idea of what to do.
It doesn't take much RAM or GPU to play emulators. I put more focus on quality parts and overclocking. If you want more GPU then look for a founder's edition/blower GTX 1060 6GB or 1070 Ti 8GB. Partpicker will let you know if there is any issue with a card fitting the case or look up what the case can support with the CPU cooler and get the card size. This is an open air Strix 1050 Ti. It's pretty nice, but not founders/blower. I can't find a cooler like that for the 1050 Ti. Blower cards exhaust heat out of the case which is nice for small ITX builds. Open air cards just blow heat into the system which is fine if the case has decent airflow. You can see how different cards handle different emulators on YouTube.
I thought the R6 was great for you in particular because it is optimized for silence with high-density industrial dampening on side, top and front panels and supports adding a bunch of storage. I figured you might want even more storage at some point and might even RAID. You could get external hard drives. It's also high quality and looks nice. Make sure you pick a case that suits your needs. Some video editors get annoyed hearing system fans and hard drives while editing. They want everything silent. You could pick a case without a side panel window if any LEDs inside the system will bother you.
The stock cooler is said to be noisier and run hotter. It will work fine if you want to cut costs.
This only supports dual channel memory. You would have to go higher to Intel X299 or AMD X399 for quad channel. There isn't much of a performance difference between dual and quad channel. The biggest leap is from single to dual channel.
You could save some with the TXM 550W, a B450 motherboard like the ASRock B450 Pro4 and use the stock CPU cooler. The H7 is better and matches aesthetic. I believe it will come with an AM4 mounting bracket by now or else you can get one easily from their website. You could even go down to the GTX 1060 6GB if this is only for photo and video editing and not gaming. The 1070 Ti has 8GB VRAM and more CUDA cores though. The GTX 1060 is the lowest card I see recommended for 4K video editing. There is the cheaper 2700 without the X. The monitor is FreeSync which doesnt work with NVIDIA cards. You can still use it fine without FreeSync which is a gaming thing anyway. This monitor is IPS which has good color quality and viewing angles.
Splatter Zombie Apocalypse (Blood Red Edition)
I got this on Steam for $0.49. I had some change and was looking for a cheap game that didn't suck. This is actually a fun game. I don't even like those top down/sky camera kind of games and like this. I'd imagine most people never heard of it. I sure haven't.
This is on Steam for $2.99. It's actually pretty fun. I also got this when there was a little change left and searched for something cheap. One downside is it has poor resolution support and I can't find a solution for that.
This is on Steam for $1.99 and I got it with spare change once again. This game is difficult for me. It's pretty crazy and fun though.
This is only $4.99 and pretty decent if you have some change to blow. I still need to play more. I keep putting it off with the intention of coming back to it and always play something else. I will get to it eventually.
This is $2.99 and pretty good. I also keep putting this off and need to play more. I'm just weird like that sometimes. There is no reason I haven't already beaten it.
Here are some that are better known. I want to mention them anyway. They aren't exactly huge titles and many may have missed them. These gems need to be played by everybody and some might not of heard of them yet. I found them randomly or got them from giveaways.
Killer is Dead
I Am Alive
The Darkness II
The X470 boards have the best overclocking potential and SLI/CrossFire support. It's best to check reviews for any mobo you are considering.
The CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM and case have RGB.
If you want to stream and video render then go for the Ryzen 2700 or 2700X and the GPU could be lowered to the 1070 Ti or something depending on what monitor you will use.
The 1080 Ti is great for 4K and 1440p. The 1070 Ti is best for 1440p or lower. This MSI 1080 Ti doesn't have RGB. There are other cards that do. It is black with three fans and a backplate and good price. The only RGB card that would fit this budget with everything else is the Gigabyte Aorus which has orange on it. The Asus Strix would be a nice pair with this motherboard if you can get it at a decent price. It would sync with Asus Aura. The Trident Z RGB RAM can also sync with Aura.
You could get something like the Cooler Master MasterBox Pro 5 RGB. It doesn't have very good airflow. The H500i has a bit better airflow and good quality. NZXT make great cases. Another option is the Corsair 460X which is expensive.
It can handle some overclocking.
You would need something better like the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B or Cryorig H5 to attempt a higher OC than what the stock cooler can handle. Make sure your RAM and CPU cooler have good clearance or just pick a low profile kit of RAM like Corsair LPX. The Mugen 5 Rev. B and H5 Universal both have good memory clearance/compatibility. You could even go for something like the NZXT Kraken X52, but Ryzen doesn't really need liquid. Getting an AIO would have better aesthetic if you want. I figured it was good bang for the buck just using the stock cooler and putting budget elsewhere.
You could also look into the new RTX 2070, 2080 and 2080 Ti cards. I figured it was best to get a 10 series. They are cheaper and have good availability. The new cards will be almost impossible to get for a while once released and price gouged.
Make sure the PSU is good enough for whatever you get with consideration for overclocking and a possible more powerful and power hungry GPU in the future. These two lists are fine with a 550W. You could go for a 650W like the SeaSonic Focus Plus Gold. It costs more. I like to have about 150W of headroom from the estimated power consumption. The top right of a build list on PCPP shows estimated power consumption.
From my experience cyclic redundancy check errors have been caused by a bad disc or optical drive.
The i5-8400 is a little cheaper if you want and just as good.
AMD released newer B450 motherboards. I would change the PSU to the Corsair CX450M. It's not much more for a 2666 memory kit or spend more for a 3200 kit. Faster memory gives a performance boost to the CPU. You would have to enable the higher memory speed in the UEFI/BIOS.
The Asus Strix GTX 1080 Ti can sync with the motherboard if you spend more. I went with the EVGA FTW3. It's very nice and cheaper. Another idea is a 1TB SSD.
They would handle that fine.
These are both capable of 1080p 60 FPS based on YouTube benchmark videos. I used USA for location. Part availability could be different if you live somewhere else. I wouldn't go lower than the GTX 1050. I seen a video with the Ryzen 2400G and it wasn't able to hold 60 FPS with V-Sync on in some games. It capped to 30 in some and 60 in others. The GTX 1050 seems to do a great job. The GTX 1050 Ti is the much more popular card used in most videos.
"Which CPU should I use?
Dolphin is a dual core application that relies upon IPC (Instructions Per Clock) and clockspeed for performance. Additional cores will not make Dolphin go any faster, though an "extra" core that Dolphin isn’t using may help slightly by keeping background tasks from using the same cores as Dolphin.
Accordingly, the perfect CPU for Dolphin has high IPC, a high clock rate, and four cores or more. With four cores, Dolphin has two cores for the main emulation threads, a third core for other tasks, and another core for the operating system and background tasks to run without taking resources from the emulator.
Intel: For the most part, newer is better when it comes to Intel processors. Within a single generation of processors, the difference between i5 and i7 (hyperthreading/extra core counts) don't affect Dolphin very much. Newer generations will give higher performance per clock, and K series processors will allow for overclocking to gain extra performance. Be wary of U and Y series processors, as their reduced clockspeeds often struggle with Dolphin's workload.
AMD: Dolphin's workload didn't match the strengths of AMD processors until the Ryzen line. As such, we can only recommend Ryzen or newer for Dolphin among AMD's line of processors."
"Which GPU do I need?
Choosing a GPU for Dolphin is a fairly simple task. The more powerful the graphics card, the more pixels and enhancements you can throw at it before you’ll see slowdown. However, the biggest thing to watch for is making sure the GPU supports DirectX11.1 and OpenGL 4.4. Dolphin emulates a console that functions very differently from a traditional PC, and uses the latest D3D and OGL features to reduce overhead. If you do not have those extensions, performance will suffer.
NVIDIA: Any modern mid-range or better NVIDIA GPU will be able to play Dolphin in HD resolutions with Ubershaders quite well. Old (6+ years) and/or low end GPUs may struggle, and are not recommended.
AMD: Any modern mid-range or better AMD GPU will perform well in Dolphin with Ubershaders. AMD generally favors D3D over OpenGL, so we recommend D3D for these GPUs. Old (6+ years) and/or low end GPUs may struggle, and are not recommended.
Intel: Iris Pro iGPUs will handle Dolphin well in D3D in Windows, though there are driver issues with the other graphics backends on that OS. A full fledged discrete graphics card is still highly recommended. IGPs older than the HD4000 are not supported."
I used USA because you didn't specify location. It can be adjusted if needed. This is a 1440p 144Hz G-Sync monitor. You could save some by getting a cheaper 1080p 144Hz if you want. Higher resolution makes a great difference to the gaming experience.
This is a 27" 1080p 240Hz G-Sync monitor. This was also changed to more RGB and a liquid cooler.
This one goes over by about $50. This Asus Strix GTX 1080 Ti has a backplate and RGB that can sync with the motherboard with Asus Aura.
This goes over even more. This motherboard has onboard WiFi support.
The i5-8600K and a GTX 1080 or 1070 Ti would also perform great for 1080p 144Hz gaming. I went max performance with the i7 and 1080 Ti.
It's keeping it pretty cool. I just played some Battlefield 1 at 4K on max settings and 66c was the highest it went to on one of the cores. The other cores averaged closer to 60c. One of the cores only went to 58c. It idles around 33c. I haven't tried overclocking. There is headroom to do some.
I changed it to an air cooler and reduced the RGB. Just about all parts have RGB these days. You can disable RGB LEDs with the software that controls whatever parts lighting. The motherboard and GPU still have RGB. You can disable that with Asus Aura lighting control software. The G502 also has RGB that can be disabled with Logitech Gaming Software.
This optical drive supports 4K and 1080p Blu-Ray, DVD and CD reading and writing.
This sound card has RGB you could disable or change it to the Creative ZXR which is also a great card and doesn't have RGB. Asus has a couple of interesting cards called Xonar Essence STX II and STRIX RAID DLX. I've personally only ever had Creative products for sound cards.
The tower's power supply doesn't matter for how many monitors you have. The only thing that matters is how many the GPU supports and how you connect them all (DisplayPort and HDMI etc).
I play many old games on Windows 10 fine. You would be restricted to older hardware with 7. New hardware doesn't support 7. Microsoft ended mainstream support for Windows 7 on January 13, 2015, but extended support won't end until January 14, 2020. This applies as long as you have Service Pack 1 installed. The integrated audio is pretty good on this motherboard. Tweak the equalizer for best sound. I suggest trying that first and then decide if you still want a dedicated sound card. Re-use your current sound card if you want. It appears to have a Windows 10 driver.
You have to go all the way back to Skylake for Windows 7 support.
You should watch a bunch of Carey Holzman videos. I watched his videos for months before building. It's pretty simple to build a PC though. Cables only plug in a certain way and look a certain way. Things can be keyed etc. It can help to have a magnetic screwdriver. I manage with a simple Philips #2. Don't over tighten the screws. They just need to be snug. I hold parts by their sides avoiding touching PCB etc. There is a triangle on the CPU and a dot on the socket to install the CPU correctly. The mobo manual is helpful to install RAM correctly and connect the front panel connectors. Make sure cables are plugged in good and snug, not loose. Watching good build videos will teach you these things. Carey is great at showing and explaining everything. Building a PC is mostly easy. The hard part for me has been stupid stuff like the CPU cooler being in the way while plugging in the CPU power cable or the 24 pin not wanting to plug in. I have to keep trying until it goes in. It's even more difficult to unplug them because of the clips that hold them on.
The mobo should be changed to H370 for RAID. The B360 boards don't support hardware RAID. Software RAID is an option though.