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2018 Gaming Desktop (with pretty lights)

by tostitobandito


Part List View full price breakdown


Date Published

Nov. 26, 2018

Date Built

Nov. 23, 2018

CPU Clock Rate

3.6 GHz

CPU Temperature While Idle

30.0° C

CPU Temperature Under Load

80.0° C

GPU Core Clock Rate

2.115 GHz

GPU Effective Memory Clock Rate

1.9 GHz

GPU Temperature While Idle

40.0° C

GPU Temperature Under Load

70.0° C


New gaming PC to replace my circa-2011 Alienware Laptop (M17xR3) which I'd been using mostly as a desktop replacement. It still does surprisingly well, but the 7970M GPU is showing its age and can only really run less intensive games like Blizzard titles smoothly on high settings at 1080p. I'd procrastinated for the past couple years on building a replacement, but over the last few months I started building a list here. This machine will be used for gaming, and also for some occasional photo work in Lightroom.

I've had the machine together for a couple days now, and here's where I am in terms of clocks:

CPU stable @ 5.0GHz and 1.285v with no AVX offset

CPU stable @ 5.1GHz and 1.305v with no AVX offset. This is my 24/7 setting.

I tried for 5.2 but it was going to be in excess of 1.37v so there's no way it would be practical at all given the heat.

I've got the RAM overclocked from 3200 to 3600 without touching the timings or voltage.

GPU is stable @ 2130 core and 1950 memory. My best Time Spy score is here https://www.3dmark.com/spy/5450836 , currently #2 overall for this CPU/GPU combo. Load temp doesn't really exceed 70C.

Hardware overview/thoughts:

  • Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor --- I was originally planning on getting an 8700K or 8086K and delidding, but then the new CPU's were announced and I heard they had soldered IHS's. This saves me the time/money of delidding, so it's worth a bit of extra money. Also, 8 cores and 16 threads is fun to have.

  • Corsair - H150i PRO 47.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler --- It's a gen6 Asetek 360mm AIO. They're all pretty much the same. I'm replacing the fans with Noctuas, so I don't care about those either.

  • Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI HERO (WI-FI) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard --- I like the Asus BIOS and features, and also wanted to have Aura Sync for RGB. The HERO has the same VRM's and power delivery as the CODE and FORMULA, so I didn't feel the need to get the more expensive boards.

  • G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory --- I had settled on either G.Skill or Corsair for RAM, and wanted 32GB at 3000 or 3200. I figured RGB would be fun and though the G.Skill modules looked the best, so I waited until I saw some for cheap and snagged it. The RGB looks really good, probably the highlight of the case.

  • EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card --- I had been planning on either a 1080ti or a 2080 and decided on the 2080 once 1080ti's started disappearing and becoming more expensive. It didn't seem worth it to me to buy a good 1080ti for $750-800 when I could get a 2080 for like $50 more. I got EVGA's XC Ultra because it was the nicest and beefiest card which was available from EVGA or Asus. It's the reference PCB same as the Nvidia FE cards, but it has a massive 3 slot cooler on it so it should do much better with thermals/noise. I would've considered the FTW or STRIX cards, but they unfortunately weren't out yet.

  • Samsung - 970 Pro 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive --- This is the fastest SSD out there aside from the insanely expensive Optane units. This will be my boot drive, and 500 GB should be sufficient for all my currently-used applications and games as well. The 1 TB drives of this class are still too pricey.

  • Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive --- This will be my data drive. I went with 2.5 inch because of the case I selected. The 3.5 inch hard drive tray blocked both my bottom fan position and any 360mm radiator I might want to put in the front. So, I chose the biggest cheap 2.5 inch drive I could find which still had some degree of speed. Unfortunately they don't really make 7200 RPM 2.5 inch drives above 1 TB, so this hybrid thing will have to suffice.

  • Fractal Design - Meshify C Dark TG ATX Mid Tower Case --- I love the design of this case. It's small for an ATX mid-tower, so it's practical to have up on my desk without taking up a ton of space. It has great airflow with the mesh front, filters everywhere, and room for 7 fans as well as the largest radiators. The only con I can think of is that due to its shorter length you have to mind your GPU length if using a front radiator since you'll only have around 285-290mm of clearance. This excludes the longest cards out there unless you either put your radiator on top, or get creative in the front by doing some light modding and putting the fans or the radiator on the outside of the front of the chassis under the dust filter.

  • Corsair - HX Platinum 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply --- It's a power supply, it's fully modular, and it's 1000W. Should be plenty of power for this build overclocked with all the LED's. It's a bit long in this smaller case, coming up to within an inch or so of the bottom fan, but it fits.

  • Noctua - NF-S12A PWM chromax.black.swap 63.3 CFM 120mm Fan --- Exhaust fans. These do over 60 CFM while making under 18 db at full throttle, which is silly. Most other case fans with similar airflow make 5-10 db more noise. I payed a bit extra to get versions which weren't brown. I have two of these exhausting out the top and one exhausting out the back. I got these instead of the NF-A12's because I didn't need the static pressure for exhaust and could save a bit of noise for the same airflow.

  • Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120mm Fan --- Intake fans. I use one of these on the bottom intake as well as three on the front radiator. These relatively new fans are probably the best all around 120mm fan on the market, especially for radiator or other static pressure applications. Much quieter than any of the alternatives, with similar or better performance.

  • Phanteks PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01 120mm Halos Digital RGB Fan Frames --- LOL, I may have gotten a bit carried away with the RGB but whatever, it'll be fun. I thought these were really neat and reasonably priced. They work with Asus AURA and they basically make any fan into a nice addressable RGB ring fan at the cost of 6mm of added thickness. This means that instead of using inferior RGB fans from Corsair or whoever, I can use the best Noctuas for optimal airflow/noise and still have pretty colors. I got one of these for each of my fans, except for the bottom intake which you can't really see. They look pretty cool combined with the RAM running on Asus Aura Sync, as you can see in the pics.

  • Dell - AW3418DW 34.1" 3440x1440 120 Hz Monitor --- It was between this and the new LG 950G which uses a one year newer version of the same size panel. The LG ended up not having much in the way of new features or better specs due to still using the old gsync module, and it was still $400+ more expensive, so I got the Dell.

  • You also may notice the custom cable extensions, which I got from Ensourced. I went with a spectrum design for the 24 pin, an Intel blue and white for the CPU power, and a Nvidia green and white for the GPU power.

  • The wire and tape you see on the back of my GPU is for a thermal probe. I have it right behind the GPU core where it gives me something within a few degrees of the GPU temp. I did this because the Asus BIOS doesn't have access to the GPU temp for fan profiles unless you have an Asus GPU. This way I can have my case fans spin up higher than their normal 40-50% when the GPU gets warm, which is what I want with the CPU under water.

Part Reviews


Expensive, but a great CPU. Mine can get up to 5.2 GHz for benchmarking, or 5.1 GHz for 24/7 use at a reasonable 1.30v or so.

CPU Cooler

Works great. Pump is basically silent on the quiet or balanced settings. You can hear it a bit on the max performance setting, but I've only been using that during benchmarking or stress testing. I can't comment on the Corsair fans since I replaced them with Noctua NF-A12's. I wish they sold versions of these without fans...


Working well. No issues with VRM temps OCing a 9900K to at least 5.2 GHz. My only complaint is that this board has a fair amount of vdroop, even on an LLC of 7 (.05v or so). Still, there's no overshoot or anything so it's just a matter of bumping the voltage a bit. Perhaps they can improve it via BIOS updates.


Hynix memory. Cheaper than the b-die kits, but won't OC as well. Mine runs fine at the 3200 XMP, but 3400 seems like it might take more than just a bump in voltage.

On the plus side, the RGB is amazing.


Really fast SSD, no issues.

Video Card

OC's pretty well, up to 2130/1950 stable in my case. The XC Ultra heatsink is amazing as well. Temps max out in the low 70's and the fans hardly have to go very high at all. If I max out the fans while running benchmarks it stay's in the 60's even with that overclock.


Great case all around. Great build quality and design for the price. The tinted glass looks fantastic in the dark when lit from the inside, it looks like it isn't even there and you can reach in the case. My only nitpick is that I wish it was maybe an inch longer so it could accommodate the longer GPU's with a front radiator and fan.


These things are amazing. 30 addressable LED's. I have three daisy chained into each header on my board. Works great with Asus Aura.

Comments Sorted by:

jeysoncc 3 points 3 months ago

Nice :D

bseyyar 2 points 3 months ago

for this build it should have been 2080ti..

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 3 months ago

Yeah, I decided to wait for ether the prices to drop to a reasonable level, or more likely for the next gen. I can sell my 2080 at that point, probably for not too much of a loss. I had a fundamental/philosophical problem with paying $1200-1300 for a GPU, regardless of how fancy the rest of my system is.

I actually intended on buying a 1080ti and not a 2080, but the supply of desirable models evaporated and the prices became more or less the same as 2080's.

Malaysaian_One 1 point 3 months ago


zan.bhatti 1 point 3 months ago

How easy was it to overclock the 9900k, and how well does it perform

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

Not difficult. There are a lot of guides online, and this overclocks in basically the same manner as any other Coffee Lake chip. It's definitely fast. It barely gets taxed under normal real-world use or most games. It only ever really gets warm under synthetic loads like stress tests and benchmarks which deliberately load all 16 threads.

Your mileage may vary depending on how good your particular chip is. I think mine is maybe slightly above average, but certainly not close to the best I've seen online in terms of clocks/voltages. Really if you can get stable at 5GHz all cores at under 1.30v you're doing ok. Most 9900K's should be able to do that.

gentlegiantgabz 1 point 3 months ago

Good choice with the Ensourced cables! I've got the 24pin winter camo and the 8pin aqua CPU. Good cables and great service.

Benjamin1966 2 Builds 1 point 3 months ago

How's the noise with the noctuas on the radiator? I was thinking of the exact same setup. Also temps when gaming?

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

The whole setup is basically silent, even while gaming. The loudest thing in the case most of the time is the 2.5" HDD, to give you an idea.

The radiator fans key off of coolant temp. They are at a minimum of 30% all the time and then ramp up to full speed from 30-40C. You can't really hear them at all until at least 50-60%, and they're only really obvious from 90-100% (which they basically never reach since coolant temp rarely exceeds low 30's under load).

The 4 other case fans are configured in the BIOS and are always at 40-50% minimums which is also silent. They ramp up based on GPU temp, and in the case of the three exhaust fans, either GPU or CPU temp (to help cool VRM's). I max them out at like 80%.

Temps when gaming so far seem to be in the high 60's or low 70's on both the GPU and CPU. The GPU in particular runs quite cool, and I haven't really noticed the GPU fans ever becoming audible. And that's with a pretty substantial overclock with a 140 core offset and 900 memory offset.

Benjamin1966 2 Builds 1 point 3 months ago

Nice. Do you use the corsair cue software for the AIO fans?

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

Yeah, Corsair Link (Cue is their RGB software which I don't use). I have the fans wired into the pump so all that is controlled from their software. It's the simplest way to get fan speed linked to coolant temp, which is what you want. It's also the only way to have control over the pump speed. There are other ways to connect it depending on how you want to control things, but this is the "standard" configuration as described in the instructions from the AIO.

I haven't had any issues with it thus far. It just works. The only thing I use it for is to set the pump speed and AIO fan curves.

Benjamin1966 2 Builds 1 point 3 months ago

Thanks for the responses. I'm definitely leaning to getting this AIO now.

Benjamin1966 2 Builds 1 point 2 months ago

Hey, it's me again! I don't know if those are new pictures up but I notice those black covers on those noctua fans. What are they for and do they come with the fans?

Also, do you think the Asus ROG-STRIX-RTX2080TI-O11G-GAMING will fit in that case?

gts250gamer101 1 point 3 months ago

Hey man, any chance you'd have pictures of the front? I am browsing through pictures of this because I am interested in buying this case, but I want to see how the RGB fans look from the outside from the front.

On another note, this is one of the cleanest, nicest builds I have ever seen. The RGB just adds to it :)

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 3 months ago

I added two pictures to the end of my gallery, the first with the case fully assembled and the second with the front panel removed. The combination of the radiator, front dust filter, and the fact that I put the LED's on the inner side of the front fans means that not a ton of light gets through the front. If you were to put your fans in a push config with the radiator on the inside that would certainly let more light through. This config is fine with me since I wasn't going for anything crazy coming out the front. I just wanted the lightshow through the side window.

Since I'm using halos I could also flip them to the other side of the fans and also probably see more through the front. I could also take the halos off the fans and instead put them directly under the front panel in front of the radiator (or between radiator and front) to act as light rings, if I just wanted lights out the front. Some small amount of modding might be necessary, but there should be clearance and I think most/all of the screw holes should be there.

gts250gamer101 1 point 3 months ago

Sorry, was inactive for such a long time, just saw them. I guess this is the case I will be buying!! Thanks man!

GHoSt3x17 1 point 3 months ago

How are temps? I'm planning on this with a H100i Pro and an RTX 2070. I'm a little worried after seeing all the reviews at like 70°C - 100°C

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

Under crazy sustained stress test or benchmark load I hit low 90's on the CPU at 5.1 GHz, but that's typical for the 9900K with all 16 threads maxed out and drawing over 200 watts.

Under more typical use cases like work or gaming, the CPU normally peaks in the high 60's or sometimes low 70's, and is often lower. It idles just above ambient in the low 30's.

Unless you get an awful chip that needs a lot of voltage, you shouldn't have a problem running the 9900K at 5.0GHz with an H100i. If you can keep the vcore under 1.32v or so heat should be manageable. Beyond that you might push 100C under certain stress tests, but likely not normal use.

GHoSt3x17 1 point 3 months ago

Okay, thanks that helps some. The other thing I've been a little worried about is that recently I've heard a lot about the bad VRM on the Maximus XI boards and how it doesn't deliver sufficient power to the cpu because it's really a kind of fake 8+4 4 phase VRM (whatever that means) so I changed my board from the Maximus XI Hero to the Aorus Z390 Master.

Have you had any problems with this? I know Linus reported issues with DirectX12 and such and people tested it and found it to be because of the board.

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

The VRM isn't "bad" and there's nothing wrong with it. It's only 4 phases yes, but it's also objectively better than the 8 phase used on the Maximus X. Phase count isn't all that matters, the components and configuration do as well. In this case for vcore it uses eight smart power stages which I think can handle 50-60 amps each, two per phase.

I think the only part worth getting upset about is the deceptiveness on the part of Asus calling it a "twin 8 phase" or whatever in their advertising, but in terms of functionality there's nothing wrong with it. It works fine in my case and there's plenty of other examples of people taking 9900K's to 5.3-5.4 or even using it for extreme overclocking beyond 6.5 GHz on LN2. The power delivery is more than sufficient for the needs of any "normal" overclocker. The only drawback I've seen with this VRM configuration compared to others is that the Maximus VRM tends to be maybe 10C warmer than some other boards, but with adequate case airflow that's a non-issue. It's still well under any temps where you'd be concerned.

Also, as pointed out by Elmor who used to work at Asus on various forums, the Maximus boards have a method of measuring vcore voltage which is much more accurate than most other boards. For that reason you'll typically observe what looks like more vdroop and lower voltages under load but in reality it's the other boards which usually show you voltages which are higher than what the CPU is actually getting because they are measured further away.

MeatStepLively 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

I’m not sure how he’s getting GPU temps that good. I had an NZXT x62 front mounted as I take and it was crushing my 2080 xc GPU temps. I was getting 83c consistently w/ the Ryzen 2700x OC running at 50c. It was just trapping hot rad air in the case and I tried every possible config to get it out to no avail. I’m getting a x42 today to top mount and putting 2x140’s in the front to get cool air cirulating around the GPU. I can update if you want

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 3 months ago

I have the XC Ultra, and it's also substantially overclocked (130/850 offsets atm). The heatsink is an extra slot thicker than the XC, so it runs significantly cooler (maybe as much as 8-10C according to the forums). Especially at "normal" gaming loads outside of stress tests. I just got done playing for a bit and my max GPU temp says 68C. I still have the stock fan curve and I never really heard them spin up substantially. I've seen it get into the low 70's during stress testing, but never above 75C or so.

Lastly, it's all about airflow. My radiator never really gets hot enough to warm up the case any meaningful amount. I mean, my peak coolant temp as I look at it right now (after gaming) is 31.8C. The three NF-A12x25's pulling air through the radiator into the case are always going at like 25% and ramp up to 40% as soon as I hit 30C on the coolant. The three exhausts and the bottom intake (which blows right to the GPU fans) are always going at least 40% or so, ramping up to a max of 70-80% as GPU or CPU temps rise substantially above idle. The air in the case never gets very warm as a result.

sharktopus 1 point 3 months ago

Another user here with a similar set-up found that he got lower temps when he changed his top two fans from exhaust to intake. Have you tried that just to see what your temps would be like? he felt having two exhaust fans on top was choking his radiator.

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 3 months ago

I haven't, as I'm happy with the airflow/temps. I could see the top intake being beneficial in certain configs, but in my case I have 4 intake and 3 exhaust fans so if I turned 2 of those exhaust fans into intakes I wouldn't be able to get air out of my case and I'd have tons of positive pressure. If I had more options for exhaust fans in a different/larger case I'd probably consider a top intake, yes. Just not in this circumstance.

How do you mean "choking" the radiator? My rad is in the front with 3 intake fans pulling air through it, so having a balanced number of exhaust fans and close to neutral pressure in the case will improve airflow and make it easier for the intake fans to pull air in through the rad.

sharktopus 1 point 3 months ago

I'm not exactly sure what he meant by choking it, I was just running that by you after reading his comments. Maybe he means pulling air through the radiator too quickly?

Does Noctua make the fans you used on your radiator in black as well? Do you control the fan speed or they all run full speed?

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 3 months ago

No they don't make the NF-A12 in black, at least not yet. It's a newer fan so they probably will eventually. I have those fans plugged into the AIO so they are controlled by the Corsair software. This is so I can setup the fans to spin based on coolant temperature. Works fine. As I said, I have them start to spin up as coolant temp rises through the 30's, though it never really gets high enough to get the fans past 50% or so.

xfcarcache 1 point 3 months ago

I have a meshify c and a 1080ti sc black edition. Was wondering if it would fit with this cooler front mounted to the case ? Does anyone know? Were you able to mount the fans in the front of the radiator? Thanks to anyone who helps out with my question.

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 3 months ago

Yes it will. The 1080ti SC/SC2 cards are basically the same length as the reference 2080/2080ti cards like the XC Ultra I have, in the neighborhood of 270mm. With a front radiator and fans in the Meshify you have room for about 285-290mm of GPU. The only ones that are longer than that are the top of the line models like the EVGA FTW3, ASUS STRIX, etc... Those all clock in at around 300mm or longer with their custom boards.

You can make the longer cards fit with the front rad/fans in a few ways if you need to. You can not use a middle fan. You can buy some Noctua NF-A12x15 thin fans and mount them outside the front of the chassis behind the dust filter (can also combine with the previous method to replace the missing middle fan). Or, you can mod the front cover/filter so there's clearance to fit full 25mm thick fans outside the front chassis.

xfcarcache 1 point 3 months ago

Wow thank you for the reply and for the suggestion of the thin noctua fan to mount onto the outsides. That’s certainly the solution I needed as I want to run a push pull configuration. I currently have the H100i pro RGB mounted at the top of the case, however, I’m not satisfied with the temps. I wanted to try a push pull at the front but give the space I knew I couldn’t. Now with those thin fans I can probably achieve this configuration with the radiator mounted to the front!

KoeppColto024470 1 point 2 months ago

Okay why a 5400 RPM drive when the 7200RPM version is slightly cheaper and runs faster? I'm just trying to understand your philosophy

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 2 months ago

It's a 2 TB 2.5 inch hybrid drive. There don't really make any 7200 RPM 2.5 inch drives with 2 TB or more. You have to get lower capacity if you want 7200 RPM, and since this was a data drive and I don't really care that much about speed I just got the 5400 RPM hybrid drive. It's perfectly fine as a data/storage drive.

Mordr3d 1 point 2 months ago

Are you resting the thermal sensor on top of the gpu backplate or did you slip it underneath it to be closer to the core somehow? I'm looking a similar situation with an AIO cpu cooler and Asus motherboard, and a non-Asus gpu.

Also, did you replace the thermal paste on both cpu and gpu or only one of them?

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 2 months ago

The backplate on the GPU has some little holes and slits in it, and I was able to slip the sensor in one of these so it's directly contacting the PCB right behind the GPU core (under the backplate). It's pretty accurate, but tends to actually read a few degrees higher than GPU core after sustained load for a while since the PCB and backplate retains heat. This isn't a bad thing though, since the point is to spin up the fans when it's warm and that's what it does. Works perfectly. If your backplate doesn't have access like this you could try the sensor on the backplate under the core, or if that's no good you could remove the backplate and run the sensor underneath before replacing the backplate.

I used Kryonaut on the CPU after cleaning off the paste that came on the 150i. I didn't repaste the GPU because it seems that this generation generally has good paste applications and my GPU temps don't really ever exceed 70C. I can't envision a repaste making it any better than that.

Mordr3d 1 point 2 months ago

Ok! Thanks for the informative write-ups. Learned new things from this build.

Vexamas 1 point 1 month ago

Absolutely unreal. I've been pondering a build for the last three weeks, and haven't found one this similar until now; Right down to the Phanteks for the Noctuas. I have a few questions!

So first, let me preface that I'm trying to hold off my build until later on this year, or early next year, when I think we'll have an unprecedented lineup of new toys - Intel's move to create a new gap between AMD, who are quickly encroaching their market - NVIDIA giving us better cards (cost to performance ratio) as they're not worried about miners and the R&D costs of RTX - Samsung and Intel duking it out with their new lineup of M.2's and of course, the potential success of DDR5 DIMM. That being said, some of my questions are to help me understand if I'd go for a Meshify C (Or C2 if that arrives) or Meshify S2. (unless something else comes out by then, which is doubtful)

  1. I'm so happy you have the intake at the bottom. If your rad wasn't in the way, and you opted against 3 front intakes, would you be able to close that shroud WITH the fan below working? This makes absolutely no sense for the C, I know, but the Meshify S2 uses the same shroud. I created this picture as a mockup of potential air-flow: https://imgur.com/a/OZjPA0S - My thought process is that the fan would be able to blow air directly into the GPU as the PSU wouldn't extend all the way through the bottom vents. You know what I mean? This only really works if I can shut the front of the shroud to direct the air through the vent.

  2. You opted for a front radiator instead of a top mounted - was this solely due to you wanting an H150 / 360? If I wasn't going to go for the Meshify S2, I would try and do a top mounted 240 / 280. Is this not possible due to clearance?

  3. If you had to do it all over again, and Noctua had their A14x25 fans available (hopefully they come out soonish), would you be more tempted to go for the larger case? (your desk space side, as I know you pointed out wanting a more compact size for that)

I suppose at the end of the day, for me deciding the case comes down to the thermals: On one hand, if I'm able to pump out absurd A14x25 fans (now that we know how good the 120mm are) and able to keep that shroud on to ensure fresh air is being forced into the GPU, I'd be happy. On the other hand however, we're looking at a larger case, that needs the air to travel further before being crammed into that GPU, whereas on the Meshify C, it's pretty much making out (definitely would have went with a more vulgar verb here) with the front fans allowing for instant airflow. I just can't decide!

As a final thought, just to add a bit more clarity to the Meshify S2 situation - I'd be going:

  • 3x 140mm A14x25s in front as intake

  • 1x 1 A14x25mm as intake on bottom with shroud on to blow air up through half of the PSU vent

  • 280 / 360 Kraken's as top radiator as exhaust with respective sized Ax25s

  • 1x S12A for back exhaust

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 1 point 1 month ago
  1. No. The Meshify C is a small/short case and the only opening in the PSU shroud that the fan can use is the removable hatch in the front. My PSU goes literally right up to within less than an inch of that bottom fan, and the bottom fan actually sits partly under the lower front fan which overhangs it a bit. The S2 is a much bigger case so you have more options. You could run the single bottom intake through the vent as you have in your image, but if it were me I'd remove the plate and put a second bottom intake right in the front like I have in my case as well. More airflow is better than less. Plus, the taller S2 case won't obstruct the bottom front fan as much as mine does. Also, you're almost certainly going to have to remove the hatch in the shroud in order to have any part of the front fans or radiator sticking down into the lower part of the case. For sure if you want 3x 140mm intakes.

  2. Well front intake is the best position thermally for a single AIO rad. Top exhaust isn't as efficient because you have warmer air going through the rad, and you'll have somewhat higher CPU temps. That, and it was the only place I could fit a 360mm rad. I wanted at least a 280, and the Meshify C will only fit at most a 240 on top. Again, the Meshify C is a small case so you're constrained to 120mm fans in most places.

  3. No, I think I'd still get the Meshify C. I like the small form factor for something on top of my desk. My only wish is that it were like an inch longer for more GPU/PSU/rad clearance, but the S2 cases are a lot bigger than that (and taller). That said, if I was gonna put it on the floor or had somewhere else with more space the S2 looks like a nice case. You can go 140mm for a lot of the fans which is nice, and it just has more room for everything so setup and cable management won't be as tricky.

If it were me building a Meshify S2 today I'd do the following:

  • 280mm front rad with 3x NF-A14 intakes
  • 2x NF-A14 bottom intakes with the shroud panel removed (if your PSU allows clearance for the second fan, otherwise just run the front one)
  • 2x NF-A14 top exhausts, in the rear-most positions
  • 1x NF-A14 rear exhaust
arthurhenrique9 1 point 1 month ago

Man, I gotta say: I created an account on this site just so I could comment here and talk to you. Congratulations on the build! I absolutely fell in love with it and will be acquiring an exact same one (the only thing I'm getting different would be the power source, I plan on getting a 850W one instead of a 1000W. Would I have any problems with that decision?). But um, you see, this would be my first time doing the whole assembling the PC thing and, as a newbie, I'm kinda scared that I will maybe do something wrong or even be unable to finish it. Would you have any videos or tutorials as to ease my mind a little bit about that? I don't know, just had to ask, because I'm planning to buy this next month so I needed a little something to calm my anxiety, I guess LOL. And um, one more question: is this high number of fans absolutely required? Because I've seen other similar builds that didn't have that whole bunch of cooling fans. Oh and, actually, one more thing: do you think the monitor could be used as like a TV for watching movies or football? Considering that my bedroom is small and my bed would be really close to the desk. Thanks and sorry if I wrote something wrong, English is not my first language. Thanks again!

tostitobandito submitter 1 Build 2 points 1 month ago

850W will be fine, even with the overclocks I'm running. I initially was going to get a 750W which I later thought might have been cutting it a little close, and then ended up going to 1000W instead of 850W. Probably because of the models/availability/price or something. Under max load the CPU will eat a bit over 200W, GPU around 275-300W, and then another 50-75W or so for the rest. So anything 850W or higher should be fine and put you in the right place in the efficiency curve for the PSU.

No you don't NEED all those fans. However, I deliberately bought a high airflow case so I wanted to take advantage of that and ventilate it as well as possible. Also with more fans you can generally run them at lower speeds for less overall noise and the same thermal performance as a configuration with fewer fans running faster. You could probably eliminate the bottom fan and the forward-most top fan, but GPU temps will likely be a little higher as a result. The bottom fan helps push air right into the GPU. The second top fan doesn't do as much; it's mainly there to help keep airflow balanced. The more air you can exhaust, the easier it is for fresh air to get in.

Sure the monitor could be used as a TV. Though if that was my use case I'd probably look at getting an actual TV for use as a monitor, or getting one of those new large format monitors. Like I know there's been a few 40-50" big monitors released recently. They're generally more expensive than comparable TV's, but likely have better response/refresh, adaptive sync, etc... Also, while ultrawide is great for watching movies since it is a very similar wide aspect ratio (so no black bars on top/bottom), for TV you'll have black bars on the sides because it's too wide. For that you'd be better off with a standard 16:9 ratio TV or monitor.

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